What to Look For in an Audio In / Out Box.

So now that you have read my arguments against USB mics (at least, most USB mics), and you are going on the straight and narrow path of an outboard device to get audio in and out of your computer, the next question is, what do you look for when you are ready to buy?

There are lots of models with all kinds of features on the market, and some are going to fill the needs of a podcaster better than others.  That’s the nature of n industry geared towards the larger market of the musician than the podcaster.  Walk into a music retail chain store, tell the people in the recording department that you are a podcaster, and watch their eyes gloss over (more on that later).  All you need to do is look at a picture of a radio station studio along side a recording studio, and you can see how the needs differ.

But you know that.  What you want are the features to look for, and what they mean.  Here we go.

 

Direct Monitor:

Direct Monitor

(Alesis io2 Express monitor mix knob)

Direct Monitor allows you to listen to the input of your I/O box directly, without the delay of going through your computer and back.  The processing of audio (analog to digital conversion, software processing, digital to analog conversion) takes time (commonly referred to as latency), and even though that time is measured in milliseconds, it’s enough to sound weird when you listen back.  While most devices provide this function, some do it better than others.  I like having one knob to dial between the direct feed, and the return from the computer. This is especially helpful when recording Skype calls, since your return from the call may be much louder or softer than what you are recording.

Mackie FireWire in section

(Mackie FW In Section)

Having one knob for balance makes your life much easier, but not every manufacturer goes this route. This is the firewire section for the Mackie U.420d mixer, a small format firewire mixer. They don’t make this mixer anymore, and even I’m struggling to find a use for it.  But this isn’t the most intuitive monitor section i’ve ever used.  Keeping it simple will allow you to make quick adjustments to your headphones while you are recording an interview or a show.  Simplicity has it’s place.  I think this is one of those places.

 

USB or Firewire?

This used to be a more debatable topic, but it doesn’t really matter as much anymore.  Firewire was the champion for more inputs and more stability, but the USB 2.0 spec (and the upcoming USB 3.0) pretty much eliminated the concern.

I use a Firewire device for most of my podcasting (the now discontinued Tascam Fireone), but I am not married to firewire.  The next portable box will most likely be a USB box, but a home mixer will probably be firewire (that’s what the market has that match my needs).

Smaller boxes with two to four inputs are usually USB.  There is no reason not to go USB.  In fact, I would lean towards USB simply because of the way both platforms have evolved.  Look at the connector change in the upgrade of firewire (different connectors for FW400 and FW800), and the way USB has kept the same connector and make it backwards compatible.  The USB plug is going to be around for a long time.  I would hedge my bets in that direction, but you aren’t going to lose anything performance wise going the firewire route.  In other words, it’s a personal preference.

 

Class Compliant vs. Drivers:

A class compliant device means that it doesn’t need drivers to work.  These boxes are about as plug and play as they get.  I use an Alesis io2 Express at times, and one of the reasons I got it was because it is class compliant.  I like being about to plug it in anywhere, and it simply works.  After trying to get a few other devices working on a friend’s computer, troubleshooting over the phone, and dealing with various driver downloads, I like the simplicity of the io2 Express.

Alesis io2 Express (index cards not included)

(Alesis io2 Express (index cards not included))

If a device isn’t class complaint, that means it will need drivers.  Drivers can provide extra functionality, but you also need to keep up with new releases and upgrades of the drivers.  This isn’t going to be brought to your attention as simply as most software you use.  Drivers rarely alert you to new versions like your word processor or recording software does.  This all sounds negative, but drivers can provide extra functions as well.  Drivers can be worth the bother, if you want what a device has to offer.

 

Phantom Power (+48v):

Phantom Power

Phantom power is a voltage sent to a microphone through the mic cable.  It is used to power a certain type of microphone (condenser).  Condenser mics are common in all kinds of studios and recording situations.  The other main microphone type (dynamic) does not need phantom power to operate.  There are other microphone types (such as ribbon mics, that can be damaged by sending it phantom power), but the two most common and valuable to the podcaster are condenser and dynamic.

A more detailed discussion of mic types will be coming, and it will be a little more involved than what I should provide in this post.  But if the choice is to have phantom power available or not, get the box with phantom power.  It opens up the choice of microphone you can use.

 

Those are my primary concerns when buying a simple audio I/O device.  A few other things that may or may not be important to you.

- Hi-Z / Instrument – This is for plugging in a guitar, bass, or other instrument in to your computer directly.  The output of an instrument falls somewhere between a microphone and a line level source (CD player, mp3 player).  Most boxes have this. If you want it, look for it. If not, don’t worry about it.

- Phono in – Turntables have special needs when it comes to interfacing with any audio device.  If you have ever seen a phono preamp, you know what I mean.  Records are produced with a specific audio curve designed to keep the needle on the record.  Phono inputs are tailored for this, but would sound awful with a line source plugged into it.  DJ mixers will have phono inputs.  So will some other devices, but they will be labeled as phono inputs.  Don’t assume that you can plug a turntable into just any input.

- MIDI – MIDI is a spec for electronic instruments to talk to each other.  This can be keyboards, rack synths, effects processors, or even lighting consoles.  MIDI does not transmit audio, but rather data and instructions.  If you don’t use instruments and effects outside of your computer, you don’t need MIDI.  (If you want to get a handle on MIDI, I highly recommend the book, MIDI for the Technophobe, by Paul White)

Pro Tools – Up until recently, if you wanted to use Pro Tools, you had to also have Pro Tools hardware.  This could range from the MBox and M-Audio hardware (and their M-Powered version of Pro Tools) to the full Pro Tools HD hardware.  I don’t use Pro Tools (I prefer Logic Pro), but it’s still a standard.  The latest version of Pro Tools (version 9) allows you to use it with any hardware.  But it is not cheap.

 

There are more options out there, like USB and Firewire mixers, and boxes with built in controllers, but this everything you would need to create a podcast.   It’s hard to make blanket recommendations, since your needs may be different from mine.  There are devices for every budget, and knowing what your needs are, and how much you have to spend can help guide you as much as knowing what features to look for.   If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.  I’m here to help.

 

Why I Hate USB Microphones

Audio, one way or another, has to get from the outside world to the internals of your computer. All those ports were put on your computer for a reason. It would be a shame not to take advantage of them.

I applaud anyone who wants to go beyond plugging in a cheap headset to the built-in input and output, or shouting at the built-in microphone. In fact, the words ‘built-in’ should be avoided at all costs, or at least, a little bit of cost. If it’s what you have to podcast with, then by all means, do what you have to do.

In the last few years, the all-in-one solution of USB microphones have been springing up all over, from small and inexpensive things you set on your desk, to larger mics that approach a professional quality (the Rode Podcaster is the first thing that comes to mind). They run the range of shape and sizes to price.

Like most jack-of-all-trade products, they rarely accomplish everything they set out to do. Getting decent quality audio from a USB mic can be achieved, but when it comes to doing more than the basics, you are limited. Yes, you can record, and do so with little fuss and hassle. But there are no USB mics – just as there are no regular mics – that will do everything, and do it well.

In my own personal experience, I have owned a few USB microphones, and have been disappointed in them from start to finish. One of them recently found it’s way into the dumpster (I would send it to ‘one lucky reader’ except I wouldn’t wish this mic on anyone). This particular mic had issues ‘booting up’ the first time it was plugged into my computer. It had a direct monitor path, so I could hear myself as well as the person on the other end of the Skype call, but the mic didn’t seem to be the problem so much as the USB part of the mic. What was sent to the person on the other end of the call was a noisy, crackling stream that was hard for him to understand, but also useless for the podcast. He thought it was the Skype call itself, and said nothing about it. I was hearing a clean feed from the mic, and didn’t know anything was wrong. When I listened back to the recording, I knew right away what had happened. I never used that mic again.

This isn’t to say that you will have the same experience I did. Not all USB mics are bad. This particular brand was problematic for me, and for other people I know who have used it. On the other hand, I know people who are very happy with the USB mics they own (I have heard good things about the Yeti from Blue Microphones for example). I’ve also moved people away from USB mics to a more conventional mic-and-USB-box solution, and they were much happier.

If someone is determined to go the USB route, I wouldn’t try to stop them (maybe a little). But there are some things I would want a buyer to know about before they spend their money on a USB mic:

- You can not plug a USB mic into anything other than a computer:
USB mics are designed to act as an audio in (or in / out) device for a computer. You can not plug it into a hardware mixer, a mic preamp (more on preamps when we get to a later discussion about levels), or any pro audio gear. There are a few exceptions, such as the Yeti Pro and the Studio Projects LSM (Little Square Mic). Both of those need a specialty cable to work with your standard 3 pin XLR connector found on most audio hardware, so don’t lose that cable.

- You can only plug in one USB mic at a time (with an exception):
Audio recording software only wants to see one piece of hardware at a time. I doesn’t like handling multiple interfaces, and that includes USB mics (and headsets, for that matter). If you want to record an interview, you are limited to one mic if you have a USB mic.

The one exception is using an Aggregate Audio Device in Mac OS X 10.5 and later. An Aggregate Audio Device is a virtual audio device that combines multiple physical audio devices (USB, firewire, built-in, or whatever shows up in the audio system preferences) into one audio device and driver. If you have two USB mics, you can plug them both in, combine them into an aggregate audio device, and record them on separate channels in your DAW software. This is a support article from Apple describing an AAD. To date, I haven’t seen anything in the Windows world that does this.

- Upgradeability:
When you want to upgrade a USB mic, you throw out the old one and buy a new mic. That’s it. If you have an outboard audio i/o box, and you want to upgrade a mic, you get a new mic, and you can still use your old mic as well. You just keep filling up inputs until you run out. If you need more audio inputs, you replace your audio i/o box, and keep on using your mics. Does it get much easier?

It wouldn’t be fair to talk about the downsides of USB mics without talking a little bit about the upsides they can offer. Grudgingly, here I go:

- Gain structure and settings:
You don’t have to set the input levels on a USB mic. Most outboard USB and Firewire i/o boxes are general enough to use with most microphones and other inputs. The USB interface is tailored for the mic itself. You aren’t presented with many controls, and while I would hate that, for a simple push-record-and-go setup, it’s easy enough. Plug in, select the mic as your audio device, and start recording.

- One cable to rule them all:
You don’t need anything other than a USB cable to connect your mic. USB cables can vary in quality, but you can find them anywhere. Microphone cables are a more specialized than what you would find at your average electronics store, and that may mean stepping foot into a musical instrument retailer, something that makes my hair stand on end.

USB mics have their place in the podcasting world, but aren’t the be-all-end-all solutions manufacturers want them to be. It’s my own personal preference, but after trying a few USB mics on my own, I wouldn’t recommend buying one. While there are people who are perfectly satisfied with the USB mics they have used in the past, there are also horror stories.

Rather than leave you in a lurch, next up I’ll talk about what to look for when buying an audio in / out box.